2 lg. fennel bulbs, with tops intact
1/2 c. (4 fl. oz. - 125 ml) olive oil
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
4 salmon steaks or skinless fillets, 6-8 oz. (185-250 g) each and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
1/2 recipe lemon butter

Chop enough of the feather fennel tops to measure about 1/4 cup (1 oz. - 30 g). In a small bowl, whisk together the chopped fennel, 1/4 cup (2 fl. oz. - 60 ml) of the oil, the lemon juice, salt and pepper. Arrange the fish in a single layer in a shallow glass or porcelain dish or enameled baking pan. Pour the fennel mixture evenly over the fish and turn the fish to coat both sides. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes - 1 hour, turning once.

Trim off and discard the remaining fennel tops and cut each bulb in half lengthwise. Cook the fennel bulbs in boiling salted water until just tender when pierced, 7-10 minutes. Drain well; set aside.

Prepare a fire in a grill. Position the oiled grill rack 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) above the fire. Remove the fish from the marinade; reserve the marinade. Arrange the fish and fennel bulbs on the rack. Grill for about 10 minutes; the fish is done when it has turned from translucent to opaque throughout. During cooking turn the fish once or twice, brushing it lightly with the reserved marinade; turn the fennel four or five times, brushing it lightly with the remaining 1/4 cup (2 fl. oz. - 60 ml) oil.

Remove the fish and fennel to a warmed platter and, if you wish, top each piece of fish with a pat of lemon butter. Serves 4.