1 med. onion
4 oz. bacon or pancetta
12 oz. ridge quills
1 red chili pepper
1 c. grated pecorino cheese or Parmesan
1 clove garlic
Generous 1 lb. ripe tomatoes or 14 oz. canned
1 tbsp. butter

Dish originated in northern Latium. Finely chop the onion and garlic and cut the bacon into thin strips. Scald the tomatoes for 1 minute in boiling water, then skin and remove the seeds. Chop or slice (if you are using canned tomatoes, put them through a sieve). Melt the butter in a wide skillet and cook the chopped onion, garlic and bacon over low heat until golden brown. Add the tomatoes and the red chili peppers. Simmer over moderate heat, and discard the chili pepper when the sauce is sufficiently spicy to suit your taste.

Half cook the pasta and drain after about 5 minutes, reserving a little of the cooking water. Transfer to the saucepan, add 1-2 tablespoons grated pecorino cheese and stir gently for about 5 minutes, until the pasta is cooked. If too thick, dilute the sauce with some of the pasta cooking water. Pour sauce over pasta and mix well. Serve with the rest of the Parmesan cheese.