3 lb. baking potatoes, such as Idaho russets
1 qt. whole milk
Bouquet garni: several parsley stems, celery leaves, and sprigs of thyme, wrapped in the green part of a leek and securely fastened with cotton twine
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste
Sea salt to taste
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 c. heavy cream
2 c. freshly grated imported Gruyere cheese
Freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 plump fresh garlic clove, halved lengthwise

Equipment: One oval baking dish (about 9 x 13 inches).

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. Peel and thinly slice the potatoes. If desired, rinse the potatoes to rid them of starch. Dry thoroughly in a thick towel.

3. In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes, milk, bouquet garni, nutmeg, salt, and 1 tablespoon of the butter, and bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Stir occasionally to prevent the potatoes from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat to moderate and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 10 minutes.

4. Prepare the topping: In a medium-size bowl, combine 1/2 cup of the cream, cup of the cheese, and stir to blend. Set aside.

5. Rub the bottom of the baking dish with the garlic and the remaining teaspoon of butter. With a slotted spoon, transfer half the potatoes to the baking dish with additional nutmeg, pepper and remaining 1/2 cup cream, and the grated 1 cup cheese. Cover with the potatoes and sprinkle again with pepper. Cover with the topping, step 4. Discard the milk and bouquet garni.

6. Place the baking dish in the center of the oven and bake until the potatoes are crisp and golden on top, about 1 hour. Serve immediately.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.