There are as many versions of Irish Soda Bread as there are Irish bakers. Some are sweetened with sugar and some are not. Some are studded with raisins or currants and some are plain. Some are spiced with caraway seeds or even cardamom and coriander. But they all have a few things in common.

For one thing the very heart of this biscuit-like loaf is the buttermilk, preferably thick and freshly churned. Each loaf has a cross slashed in its top to prevent the bread from splitting during the baking process. Soda bread is generally crusty and browned on top, and it is baked fresh and never stored for longer than a day. Best of all, soda bread is quick to make as it needs no rising time.

4 1/2 c. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
4 tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. double-acting baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tbsp. caraway seeds (optional)
6 tbsp. sweet butter
2 eggs
1 1/2 c. buttermilk

In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, salt, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and caraway seeds. Using a pastry blender or 2 knives, cut in the butter as if you were making pie dough, until the mixture resembles crumbs, all coated with flour. Do not over mix.

Make a well in the center of the mixture. Beat the eggs well and set aside about 1 tablespoon of the beaten egg for the glaze. Add the buttermilk and mix well. Pour into the center of the flour mixture and mix quickly with a fork until a ball of dough is formed. Turn out onto a floured board and using well-floured hands, knead the dough 8 or 9 times, just until the dough is smooth. Do not knead too much or else the bread will become tough and heavy.

Form the dough into a ball and place in a well-buttered 1 1/2 quart round casserole. Slash a cross about 1/4 inch in depth into the top of the dough using a small sharp knife. Brush with the reserved beaten egg and place in a preheated 350 degree oven for 60 to 70 minutes until a skewer inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Cool on a wire rack.

If you wish, you can add raisins or currants to the dough. Simply reduce the flour by 1/4 cup and add either 1 cup seedless raisins or 3/4 cup currants to the flour mixture before the butter is cut in. Bake as otherwise directed.