1 (12 lb.) turkey, defrosted if frozen
3 tbsp. butter, at room temperature
salt and pepper

CHESTNUT STUFFING:

6 bacon slices, diced
1/2 lb. (8 oz.) fresh chestnuts, cooked, peeled and chopped (or use 1/4 lb. dried chestnuts, soaked overnight in cold water)
1 cup fresh white bread crumbs
1 medium egg, beaten
1/2 bunch watercress, trimmed and finely chopped
salt and pepper

Put the bacon in a non-stick sauté pan and cook over low heat until the fat is released. Add the chestnuts and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until the bacon is crisp. Add the bread crumbs. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Add the egg, watercress, and salt and pepper; mix well.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Spoon the cold stuffing into the neck end of the bird, pull the skin over and secure with a skewer. Twist the wing tips up and over; tie wings and legs with string. Spread butter over the bird, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then place, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting pan. If using a meat thermometer, push it into the thickest part of a thigh, away from the bone.

Roast at 350°F for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, until juices run clear.

Note: If using a meat thermometer, the temperature should read 185°F. If the bird browns before it is cooked, cover with foil and continue roasting.

Let the bird stand, wrapped in foil, while you make the gravy from the drippings.