2 c. all-purpose, unbleached flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. sugar
6 tbsp. butter (no substitutes)
3/4 c. buttermilk

Sift the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and sugar into a big bowl. Cut the butter into small pieces and rub it into the dry ingredients with the fingertips until the mixture looks like cornmeal. Add most of the buttermilk, beating quickly with a large wooden spoon. Mix until a ball is formed, adding more buttermilk by the spoonful, as needed. You probably will need to use all the buttermilk; the goal is to have a firm dough you can shape.

Put the dough on a lightly floured surface and pat into a round dish loaf. In bygone days, the Irish housewife cut a cross in the top of the loaf to let the devil out. Today, she does the same but to let the loaf to expand without cracking.

Put the loaf on a buttered baking sheet and bake in a 375 degree F. oven for 25 minutes or until nicely browned. Slice thickly while still warm and serve with jam and butter.

Variation: Add 1/2 cup of currants or raisins with the first addition of buttermilk.