TIE ROPES OF GOLDEN DOUGH into simple overhand knots to create these whimsical dove-shaped rolls. As the rolls rise and bake, each seems to take on its own avian personality. They're sure to draw a few rewarding oohs and aahs when you present them for Easter brunch, or any other special spring breakfast.

The doves are made with an easy-to-shape egg and buttery cardamom yeast dough that holds a design as it bakes. Seedless raisins are added for eyes, and a whole almond depicts a break.

Our recipe will make an even dozen of the little doves. Each is about 3 inches in diameter; plan on serving one or two to each guest. Offer the bread warm from the oven with plenty of butter. Or cool and freeze to store; then thaw and reheat at a later time.

SPRING DOVE BREADS:

1 1/2 c. (1/4 lb.) butter
6 tbsp. whipping cream
1/2 c. sugar
1/2 tsp. EACH salt and ground cardamom
1 pkg. active dry yeast
1/4 c. warm water (105 to 115 degrees)
3 eggs
About 4 c. all-purpose flour
24 raisins
12 whole blanched almonds
1 egg yolk beaten with 1 tbsp. water

In a 1 or 2 quart pan, melt the butter; remove from heat and stir in the cream, sugar, salt and cardamom. Let cool to lukewarm. Meanwhile, in the large bowl of an electric mixer, combine the yeast and warm water; let stand 5 minutes to soften. Add the cooled butter mixture, the eggs, and 2 cups of the flour. Mix until well blended, then beat at medium speed for 2 minutes. With a heavy-duty mixer or a heavy spoon, gradually stir in about 1 2/3 cups more flour to make a stiff dough.

Turn dough out onto a board coated with some of the remaining 1/3 cup flour; knead until smooth and slightly elastic, about 10 minutes, adding more of the flour as needed to prevent sticking. Place dough in a greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.

Punch dough down; divide into 12 equal portions. Working with one portion of dough at a time, break off a 3/4 inch ball for dove head; set aside.

Roll remaining portion of dough into a 9 inch long tapering rope that measures about 1/2 inch in diameter at one end and 1 inch in diameter at other end. Tie an overhand knot at thin end of dough rope. For dove tails, make several slashes in wide ends of rope to resemble feathers. Repeat with the remaining 11 portions of dough, placing bodies of doves at least 2 inches apart on greased baking sheets.

Now go back and shape the reserved balls of dough for dove heads by forming them into smooth tear-shaped drops. Settle heads into cavities of dough knots; press down lightly to secure. Make small slashes on each side of heads and insert raisins for eyes. At front of heads, make a small slash and insert wide end of almond for break. Cover doves with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until puffy, about 45 minutes.

Before baking, push raisins and almonds back into head to secure. Brush rolls all over with egg yolk mixture. Bake in a 375 degree oven until golden, about 12 to 15 minutes. Serve hot, or cool completely on a rack, wrap airtight, and freeze. To reheat, thaw wrapped rolls at room temperature. Place on a baking sheet, cover with foil, and heat in a 375 degree oven until hot throughout, about 10 minutes. Makes 1 dozen rolls.