Creme fraiche and fromage blanc; household staples.

Cream fraiche can be considered a staple in French cookery; it has the richness of our whipping cream, but the consistency and tang of sour cream. Yet it doesn't curdle or separate when heated. Mild flavor whipping cream can be used as an alternate.

White cheese is prepared the same way as creme fraiche, but is made with milk; because the butter-fat content is lower, it cannot be used in cooking like creme fraiche. White cheese is more tart in flavor then creme fraiche and softer in texture, but it can be used as a topping for soups and fruits and in other similar ways.

To start both creme fraiche and white cheese, you warm the liquid, than add buttermilk as a starter, which causes the liquid to clot. Time does the work.

CREME FRAICHE:

For each 1 cup whipping cream, warmed to 90 degrees to 100 degrees, add 1 tablespoon buttermilk or sour cream (select a brand for its flavor; there is a range in tastes), blending well. Cover and let stand at room temperature (68 to 72 degrees or put in a yogurt maker) for 12 to 16 hours or until it beings to thicken.

Chill at least 24 hours before using to allow acid flavor to develop and cream to thicken further; cream should then be of almost spreadable consistency. Store in refrigerator up to 2 weeks or as long as taste is tangy but fresh. Makes 1 cup.

WHITE CHEESE (FROMAGE BLANC)

Follow directions for creme fraiche (preceding), using 4 cups whole milk instead of whipping cream, and 1/4 cup buttermilk (do not use sour cream).

The finished product will have a yogurt like consistency. Pour into a cloth- lined colander and let drain for 2 to 3 hours.

Scoop white cheese into a covered container and chill until ready to use or as long as a week. Serve white cheese as you would sour cream or creme fraiche when heat is not used. Makes about 2 cups.

WHITE CHEESE WITH CREME FRAICHE

(Fromage blanc a la creme fraiche)

Fresh fruit is often served with these dairy foods, sharing the same plate. Spoon white cheese (about) onto plate (allowing 1/3 to 1/2 cup for a portion) and spoon creme fraiche (about) on top (2 to 3 tablespoons for a portion). Sprinkle with sugar.