BATTER:

1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour, preferably of the strength of bleached flour
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. brandy
2/3 c. beer
3/4 c. cold water
2 egg whites

1/2 c. white wine
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Pinch of dried thyme
Pinch of dried oregano
3 to 4 lb. mussels, cleaned
1 to 2 qt. olive oil, cold pressed but not virgin or extra virgin

Place the flour and salt in a bowl and stir in the liquid ingredients of the batter except the egg whites, working the batter minimally but eliminating lumps. Set the batter aside to rest.

Heat the wine, garlic, and dried herbs in a large pot; add the cleaned mussels, cover, and cook over high heat just until they open. Remove the mussels from the pot and take the meats from the shells. Save the juices for another use.

Beat the egg whites to soft peaks, and fold them into the batter. Heat approximately 1 1/2 inches of olive oil to about 390 degrees in a high-sided pot suitable for deep frying. (At this temperature, a small spoonful of batter will brown in about a minute.)

Dry the mussel meats in a paper towel and, working in batches, coat them in batter and brown them in the oil without crowding the pot, turning once. Drain on paper towels and serve each batch as it is done. Serves 4 as a main course.