In a 2-quart pan, combine 1 cup water, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 cup butter. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to melt butter. Add 1 cup flour, all at once; remove pan from heat and beat vigorously with a wire whisk until smooth.

Add 4 eggs, one at a time, beating each until mixture is smooth and glossy. Beat in 3/4 cup shredded Swiss or sharp Cheddar cheese, 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, 2 teaspoons dry mustard, 1/8 teaspoon cayenne, and 1 teaspoon dry basil, oregano leaves, or thyme leaves. If desired, add 2 tablespoons caraway or poppy seed to the batter.

Drop by spoonfuls (making balls about 1 1/2 inches in diameter) onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until puffed and brown. Turn off oven. Prick each puff in 5 places and leave in closed oven for 10 minutes to dry. Serve warm, or cool completely, then freeze.

If made ahead, recrisp puffs (no need to thaw) uncovered in a 350 degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes or until warmed. Makes about 36 puffs.