File (pronounced fee-lay) gumbo is a Southwest Louisiana favorite that takes its name from the ingredients that gives it its unique flavor. File is made of sassafras leaves ground to a powder. You can find file in specialty stores and well-stocked grocery stores.

File gumbo is good just about any time, but it's especially good on cold days. Thick slices of hot French bread and butter are a perfect accompaniment.

There are no absolutes in making the gumbo - just about everything is a matter of taste. This version of gumbo uses chicken as the primary meat. In Louisiana, wild game is frequently used, particularly squirrel or duck. Guinea hen makes a wonderful gumbo. You can also throw in a pint of oysters at the same time you add the file. 1/2 c. cooking oil (if you fry the chicken, reserve 1/2 c. of the frying oil) 1/2 to 2/3 c. flour 1 med. onion, chopped 6 or 8 green onions, chopped 1 tbsp. minced parsley 1/2 bell pepper, chopped 3 or 4 cloves of garlic, minced 1 stalk of celery, chopped 3 or 4 qts. water 2 or 3 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. black pepper 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper (or sprinkle in Tabasco sauce to the desired hotness) About 1/2 lb. smoked sausage cut in sm. pieces 1/2 tsp. thyme 1 bay leaf, quartered 3 or 4 tbsp. gumbo file

If you want to (I like to), fry the chicken before beginning the gumbo. Then:

Heat the 1/2 cup oil in a large, heavy pot (a cast iron Dutch oven is perfect) over medium heat. When the oil is hot, stir in the flour. Stir continuously until the flour is a rich brown, about the color of peanut butter. This is the roux, the start of all Cajun cooking. As soon as the roux is the proper color, add in the vegetables and continue to stir until the onions are transparent, even beginning to brown slightly. Keep the heat at medium or slightly lower all through this to prevent scorching the flour. This process will take about 20 to 30 minutes.

Add one of the quarts of water, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. When the first quart is added, bring the heat up to high and add the second and third quarts of water. Drop in the chicken pieces and add the salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, sausage, thyme, and bay leaf. When it comes to a boil, lower the heat and allow it to simmer for an hour or two. About a half hour before you're ready to serve, add the file and allow the gumbo to simmer until you dish it. Serve the gumbo in soup bowls over a scoop of steamed rice.