2 lb. (about 2 dozen) fresh mussels
3 c. white wine
8 tbsp. (1 stick) butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 sm. onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/2 tsp. saffron threads dissolved in 2 tbsp. boiling water
1 c. long grain rice
3 c. broth from cooking mussels
1/2 c. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Sm. handful fresh parsley, finely chopped

Pile the mussels in a very large saucepan and pour in the white wine. Cover the pan and set it over a high heat. Bring the liquid to the boil, hold onto the pan handle and lid at the same time, and give the pot a good shake so you redistribute the mollusks.

Continue cooking over the high heat (watch that the liquid doesn't boil over the top of the pot) for another few minutes, until all the mussels have opened. Then lift them from the liquid with a slotted spoon and set them aside in a bowl until they are cool enough to handle.

Meanwhile, line a strainer with a clean cloth napkin, small kitchen towel, or several thicknesses of cheesecloth. Set the strain over a bowl and pour in the mussels and the wine; reserve the cooking liquid.

Take the mussels from the shells, discarding all the shells and any mussels that have not opened. Set them aside while you make the rice.

Melt the butter in a heavy-based flameproof casserole and add the shallot, onion and garlic. Cook these over a medium heat until they are soft but not brown. Add the saffron and rice to the butter and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

Add 1 cup of the mussel broth, raise the heat so the liquid comes just to the boil. Then lower the heat quickly and cook the rice in the broth, leaving the cover off and stirring occasionally, for about 7 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed the broth.

Continue adding the broth in 2 more portions, letting all the second addition be absorbed by the rice, but not all of the third. Add the mussels during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Stir the rice over the heat. At the end, total cooking time is 20 minutes, rice should be al dente and there should still be some liquid in the pot. (Also, you will have some mussel liquid left over for another use.)

Stir in the Parmesan cheese and taste for seasoning: the mussel broth and cheese should have given the dish quite enough saltiness, and it is best left unpeppered as well.

Pile the risotto into a warm serving dish and sprinkle it with parsley. Serve it at once. Serves 4 as an appetizer.