1 duckling (3 3/4-4 lb.)
Salt
3 tbsp. black peppercorns
Watercress

A generous coating of coarsely ground pepper encrusts duckling with robust flavor, giving the crisp skin an added crunch. Cooking seems to gentle the pepper somewhat, lessening its bite. Those who enjoy pepper steak will appreciate this similar treatment of duck. Accompany it with a light, fruity red wine such as a young Beaujolais.

1. Soak top and bottom of 3 1/4 quart clay cooker in water about 15 minutes; drain.

2. Rinse duckling and pat dry, reserving giblets for other use. Sprinkle cavity with salt. Process peppercorns in small blender jar until coarsely ground. (Or use coarse peppermill or mortar and pestle.) Cover duckling with pepper, patting firmly into skin. Place duckling, breast side up, in cooker.

3. Place covered cooker in cold oven. Set oven at 425 degrees. Bake, piercing skin in several places with fork every 30 minutes, until duckling is well browned, 1 3/4 hours to 2 hours. Spoon off and discard fat. Bake uncovered until crisp, 10-15 minutes.

4. Cut duckling into quarters; garnish with watercress.