It is difficult to understand why there should be so much mystery surrounding the cooking of pasta. Actually it is one of the simplest things to do if one follows some very simple rules.

Use a large cooking vessel and a lot of water. Generally, allow 4 quarts of water to 1 pound of pasta. Heat the water over high heat and bring to a rolling boil. Have the water boil for several minutes before you put in the pasta. Add 1 tablespoon oil as the water approaches a boil. Many cooks omit the oil, but we believe that it separates the strands of pasta. It also helps keep the cooking water from boiling over.

When the water is at a rolling boil, add approximately 1 1/2 tablespoons of salt for every 4 quarts of water. Put the pasta in the water all at once. As soon as the pasta is in the water, and sometimes long strands of pasta will take a little time to become fully immersed in the water, stir immediately and frequently with a wooden fork. You will see the strands of pasta separating as each strand surrounds itself with water. When fully separated, you can stop stirring continuously, but do so every minute or so. (We believe it a cardinal sin to cut any spaghetti or other long pasta in half; you should learn to handle the full strands.)

When several minutes have gone by, remove a strand with a wooden fork and test. Al dente means "firm to the bite", and that is how Italians eat pasta.

Remember that even in the draining process, the water is so hot that once the pot is removed from the stove, the pasta is still cooking. Even while saucing it with hot olive oil or a tomato sauce, the pasta is still cooking.

Do not run the pasta under cold water. Put it into a colander, shake the colander to remove as much liquid as possible, and return it to the pan in which it cooked. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of butter (sometimes specified in the recipe), then toss lightly and sauce it. Overcooking pasta destroys its texture, so be sure that it is al dente.

All store-bought pasta comes with directions on the box but they are not always reliable. Rely instead upon yourself, and test the pasta as it cooks.

Note that we suggest you drain the pasta and then return it to the pot in which it cooked so as to coat it briefly with butter. t he best way to toss the pasta is simply by stirring with 2 wooden forks or spoons, mixing and tossing the pasta. Lift and stir. Often it is best to add half your sauce while the pasta is in the pot, toss again, and then transfer the pasta to the serving plates. Before taking it to the table, add the remaining sauce and whatever cheese or garnish is called for in the recipe. Many of the recipes call for adding more cheese when serving the pasta and this should be on the side.

One of our favorite sayings is that "pasta waits for no one". As soon as it is cooked, drained and sauced, serve it.