This mustard-flavored chicken is easy and versatile. Although the recipe uses a combination of Dijon-style and coarse mustards, you may substitute any mustard that appeals to your fancy. Since there are hundreds on the market, flavored in countless ways, the possibilities can occupy you for years.

1 chicken, 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. quartered
1/3 c. mustard (we like half Dijon-style & half coarse Pommery-style mustard)
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 c. vermouth or dry white wine
1/2 c. Creme Fraiche or heavy cream
Salt to taste

1. Coat the chicken with the mustard and set it in a bowl, covered, to marinate at room temperature for 2 hours.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

3. Arrange chicken, skin side up, in a flameproof baking dish. Scrape out any mustard remaining in the bowl and spread it evenly over the chicken. Season lightly with pepper and pour the vermouth or wine around the chicken.

4. Set dish on the center rack of the oven and bake, basting occasionally, for 30 to 40 minutes or until chicken is done. You may have to bake the dark meat sections for another 5 to 10 minutes.

5. Scrape the mustard off the chicken and back into the baking dish. Transfer chicken pieces to a serving platter, cover, and keep warm.

6. Skim as much fat as possible from the cooking juice sand set the baking dish over medium heat. Bring to a boil, whisk in the creme fraiche or heavy cream and lower heat. Simmer the sauce for 5 to 10 minutes or until it is reduced by about 1/3. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Taste, correct seasoning and spoon sauce over the chicken. Serve hot or at room temperature. 2 to 4 portions.