Always a treat, this old-style potato dish can be plain or fancy depending on the cook and the need. Dress it up with a dusting of poppy, caraway or sesame seed, or add parsley or chives, or herbs like savory or sweet marjoram to the potatoes when you add the salt, pepper and nutmeg.

2 lb. potatoes, peeled
3 egg yolks
2 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. heavy cream
Black pepper
Scant 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
Flour
1 egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Boil the potatoes; drain and then dry of excess moisture in the oven. (Leave oven at 400 degrees.) Then rub them through a sieve or put them through a ricer. Add the egg yolks, butter, cream, salt and pepper to taste, and the nutmeg, mixing well. Turn onto a floured board and divide mixture into 8 to 10 equal portions. Shape each piece into a square about 1 inch thick. With a spatula, transfer each piece to a greased baking pan and brush tops with the beaten egg. Bake until well browned, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 8 to 10 servings.