This dish has a classic simplicity, and its preparation is similarly streamlined. Just brown lemon-and-thyme-seasoned lamb chops quickly, then serve drizzled with a lemony reduction of its own cooking juices. If you enjoy wine with such a main dish, try a fruity young Beaujolais, lightly chilled. Preparation time: 5 minutes. Chilling time: 1/2 to 1 hour. Cooking time: 8 to 10 minutes.

FOR 4 SERVINGS YOU WILL NEED:

4 to 6 blade bone lamb chops, about 1/2 inch thick
3 tbsp. lemon juice
White pepper
1 tsp. dried thyme leaves
1 1/2 tbsp. butter
1/2 tbsp. salad oil
Salt
Lemon wedges for garnish

1. Trim excess fat from lamb chops, if necessary. Place in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice. Sprinkle lightly with white pepper, then evenly with thyme. Refrigerate to blend flavors for 1/2 to 1 hour.

2. In mixture of heated butter and oil in a large heavy frying pan, cook lamb chops over moderately high heat until well browned on both sides (3 to 4 minutes per side). Salt to taste. Remove chops to a warm platter.

3. Pour off and discard fat in pan. Add remaining lemon juice to pan, stirring to dissolve brown drippings. Drizzle mixture over chops. Garnish with lemon wedges. Good served with: Mashed potatoes or rice pilaf, and sliced fresh tomatoes.

FOR 2 SERVINGS: Half of the ingredients. FOR 8 SERVINGS: Double the ingredients.