A 1 1/2 lb. sea bass

Sea bass should be cleaned but with head and tail left on (or substitute any other firm white fish).

1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. fermented black beans
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. Chinese rice wine, or pale dry sherry
1 tbsp. finely shredded, peeled fresh ginger root
1 scallion, including the green top, cut into 2 inch lengths
1 tbsp. peanut oil, or flavorless vegetable oil
1/2 tsp. sugar

PREPARE AHEAD: 1. Wash the bass under cold running water and pat it dry inside and out with paper towels. With a sharp knife, lightly score the fish by making diagonal cuts 1/4 inch deep at 1/2 inch intervals on both sides. Then sprinkle fish, inside and out, with the salt.

2. With a cleaver or knife, coarsely chop the fermented beans, then combine them in a bowl with the soy sauce, wine, oil and sugar. Mix well.

3. Lay the fish on a heatproof platter 1/2 inch smaller in diameter than the pot you plan to steam it in. Pour the bowl of seasonings over the fish, and arrange the pieces of ginger and scallion on top.

TO COOK: Pour enough boiling water into the lower part of a steamer to come within an inch of the cooking rack. Bring the water in the steamer to rolling boil and place the platter of fish on the rack. Cover the pot securely. Keep the water in the steamer at a continuous boil and replenish it if it boils away. Steam the fish for about 15 minutes, or until it is firm to the touch. Serve at once on its own steaming platter placed on top of a serving dish. As a main course, this will serve 3 or 4.