To serve 4 to 6. 1 lb. dried sm. red beans or 1 lb. dried red kidney beans 4 tbsp. butter 1 c. finely chopped scallions, including 3" of the green tops 1/2 c. finely chopped onions 1 tsp. finely chopped garlic 2 (1 lb.) smoked ham hocks 1 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 6-8 c. freshly cooked long grain rice

In a heavy 3 to 4 quart saucepan, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Drop in the beans and boil briskly, uncovered, for 2 minutes. Then turn off the heat and let the beans soak for 1 hour. Drain the beans in a sieve set over a large bowl; measure the soaking liquid and, if necessary, add more water to make 4 cups. Set the beans and liquid aside.

Melt the butter in a heavy 4 to 5 quart casserole set over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add 1/2 cup of the scallions, the onions and the garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, or until they are soft and translucent but not brown.

Stir in the beans and their liquid, the ham hocks, salt and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for about 3 hours, or until the beans are very soft. Check the pot from time to time and, if the beans seem dry; add up to 1 cup more water, a few tablespoonfuls at a time. During the last 30 minutes or so of cooking, stir frequently and mash the softest beans against the sides of the pan to form a thick sauce for the remaining beans.

With tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the ham hocks to a plate. Cut the meat away from the bones and remove and discard the skin, fat and gristle. Cut the meat into 1/4" dice and return it to the beans.

Taste the red beans for seasoning and serve at once, directly from the casserole or from a large heated tureen. Place the rice and the remaining 1/2 cup of scallions in separate bowls and present them with the beans.

NOTE: In Louisiana, red beans and rice are traditionally made with a leftover ham bone, and you may substitute a ham bone for the ham hocks in this recipe. Without trimming off the meat, cut the bone into 2" or 3" pieces with a hacksaw, so that the marrow inside the pieces will melt and flavor the beans. Add the pieces of bone to the soaked bean mixture and pour in enough additional water to cover them completely. When the beans are cooked, remove the bones from the pot, trim off and dice the meat and return it to the beans. Discard the bones.