1 young 2 1/2 lb. chicken
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 whole lemons

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wash chicken thoroughly in cold water, inside and out. Remove all loose bits of fat. Let it sit for 10 minutes on a slightly tilted dish until all water has drained. Dry it well with paper towels.

Sprinkle salt and pepper on chicken, rubbing it into all surfaces and interior, using your fingertips. Rinse lemons in cold water and dry with a paper towel. Soften by pressing them between your palms and rolling them back and forth a few times. Perforate each lemon at least 20 times with a toothpick.

Place both lemons in chicken's cavity. Close opening with toothpicks. Run a string from 1 leg to the other, tying it at both knuckle ends. Do not pull the legs tightly together.

Put the chicken into roasting pan, breast facing down. Do not baste. Place in upper third of the preheated oven. After 15 minutes, turn the chicken with breast facing up. Be careful not to break skin.

If it is kept intact, it will swell like a balloon for a beguiling presentation. Cook for another 30 minutes.