There's a whole ritual involved in eating Peking-style duck. Each guest slices morsels of crisp skin and succulent meat, then prepares a kind of sandwich in a flour tortilla with Chinese hoisin sauce (available in Oriental markets), coriander, and green onion. 1 tsp. each ground ginger and cinnamon 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg 1/4 tsp. each ground cloves and pepper 1/4 c. soy sauce About 1 c. canned hoisin sauce 1 to 1 1/2 dozen flour tortillas About 1 1/2 c. slivered green onion, including some tops 1/2 to 1 c. coarsely chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)

Remove giblets and reserve for other uses. With fork, pierce duck skin well. Trim off excess neck skin; fasten remaining skin to back with skewer.

Blend ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and pepper. Dust about 1/2 teaspoon of the spice mixture inside each duck, then rub remaining mixture evenly over exterior of birds. Leave body cavity open for more even cooking.

Bank about 20 glowing coals on each side of fire bed and place a deep metal drip pan in center. Arrange birds, breast-side up, on a well- greased grill 4-6 inches above drip pan. Cover barbecue, leaving dampers open to maintain a hot fire. Add 5 or 6 briquettes to each side of fire every 1/2 hour to maintain a constant temperature.

Combine soy and 2 tablespoons of the hoisin sauce. Cook ducks for about 2 to 2 1/4 hours or until thigh meat is soft when squeezed (protect hands with paper towels). During last 20 minutes of cooking, brush ducks frequently with soy mixture.

Meanwhile, lightly dampen tortillas. Cut in halves or quarters, stack, and wrap in foil. Heat in a 350 degree oven for 10-15 minutes or until steamy. Place in a napkin-lined basket to keep warm. Put remaining hoisin sauce, green onion, and coriander in separate serving bowls.

To eat, spread tortilla pieces with hoisin; slice small pieces of duck skin and meat (trimming out fat) and put on tortilla. Top with a few green onion slivers and some coriander, and fold to eat out of hand. Makes 6-8 servings.